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Prince Albert

The Swartberg Pass


tel: +27 (0)23 5411 366  fax: +27 (0)23 5411 788; e-mail: princealberttourism@intekom.co.za

Hiking in the Swartberg Pass
Cycling in the Swartberg Pass
Dry-stone walls - an engineering feat
Local books  about the Pass
More about the Swartberg Mountains
Take a guided tour through the Swartberg Pass


Prince Albert lies at the entrance to the 27km Swartberg Pass, considered one of the most spectacular mountain passes in the world: an untarred road winds to the summit 1 583 metres  above sea level in steep zig-zags and sudden switchbacks,  with breath-taking views at every turn. The turn-off to Gamkaskloof lies near the summit of the pass.

The entrance is through a narrow Cape sandstone kloof where the eye is drawn upwards by the convoluted rock faces to the sparkling sky above. The only sounds are bubbling water, the wind in the trees and birdsong. Several picnic sites near the river provide tranquil spots to stop and absorb the peace and splendour.

As you drive on you gain your first sight of the valleys and peaks of the Swartberg Pass. The natural characteristics of the Pass are magnificent – as are the man-made features. This was Thomas Bain's last engineering masterpiece. His construction philosophy, which has stood the test of time was: "Good hat and good boots".

Dry-stone walls - a great engineering feat

The dry stone packed retaining walls are amazing, in one place on the southern side the wall is 2,4kms long. They range in height from ½ metre to 13 metres. Laws of friction and cohesion govern the pressure on retaining walls. The bed (ledge, base or shelf) measures up to 1 metre plus up to 300mm at the top. Selected stone was used and laid with grain at right angles to the natural bedding line. The walls were battered (sloped inward) in a rise of 1:6. To illustrate the scale of the highest sections of the walls, Boegoekloof measures 13,1 metres vertically and the second hairpin on the north, 7,3 metres. Pressure on the roadway through traffic has compacted and secured the walls and roadway.

The larger stones on the ledge bedding provided good drainage but further provision was necessary. Bain’s original specifications give "rule of thumb" measurements and clear instructions as to how many culverts, side drains etc. there were to be, but it is not stated how these were arrived at. What is clear is that they appear adequate, for after over a century of rain the walls are essentially still in place and until recently, with little or no damage.

In September 2000, a concerned group of design and construction professionals from Prince Albert initiated a crisis meeting with the Provincial and District Roads Engineers to discuss their difficulties in providing adequate maintenance of the Pass after the bouts of heavy rains over the past three years. The meeting resulted in all concerned walking the Pass to discuss specific problem areas and a folio of photographs and drawings was handed over. The Pass underwent specialist maintenance and Prince Alberters were delighted to see their old friend (declared a National Monument in its Centenary year 1988) receiving such a comprehensive facelift. 

Along the way there are relics of an old prison, toll hut, hotel and other interesting historical sites

Often covered in snow in winter, the mountains' unique micro-climate supports fynbos and a rich birdsnow at Die Top Swartberg Pass.JPG (37996 bytes) population, in contrast with the arid zone flora and fauna outside its cool, shady kloofs. Watch out for black eagles and klipspringers.

The Swartberg Pass is now part of a World Heritage Site.

Snow clings to grass at "Die Top" on a chilly spring morning - click on picture to enlarge

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Hiking in the Swartberg Pass

There are a number of options for hiking in the Swartberg Mountains, from day hikes to a demanding five day hike

Lindsay of Dennehof Tours arranges a hiking permit and then drives you into the Swartberg Pass with a picnic lunch, a bird list and map and you hike back down to Malva Draai, where beers or soft drinks will be cooling in the river. Choose between a 9km and an 18km route.  Call Lindsay on 082 456 8848 for more information. 

The best months for hiking and cycling are April/May and September/October. Details and permits are available from the Nature Conservation Office in Oudtshoorn. Tel: 044 279 1739, fax: 044 272 8110. 

You must have a permit to hike in the Swartberg Pass. 

Please note that the one day hiking trails are open but the five day Swartberg Mountain Trail is currently undergoing maintenance and is closed until further notice. (November 2007)

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Cycling in the Swartberg Pass

Dare-devils can hire a mountain bike to ride up and down ... or just down the Swartberg Pass! Call Lindsay of Dennehof Tours on 082 456 8848 for more information. 

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Take a guided tour through the Swartberg Pass

Lindsay Steyn of Dennehof Tours takes visitors on trips in an air-conditioned combi through the Swartberg Pass. He also arranges trips into Gamkaskloof, visit www.dennehof.co.za for more information.

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Books on the Swartberg Pass

Read all about the history and romance of this spectacular pass in:Swartberg Pass - Masterpiece of a brilliant Road Engineer by Helena Marincowitz, available at the Fransie Pienaar Museum and the Tourism Association Office
Local enthusiasts have produced a field guide to the flowers of the Swartberg Pass, available from the Fransie Pienaar Museum and the Tourism Association Office

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The Swartberg Mountains

The Swartberg mountains are a magnificent backdrop to the village of Prince Albert. Once considered almost impenetrable, there are now three major gateways – the Swartberg Pass, Meiringspoort and the Seweweekspoort – linking the Central Karoo with the Little Karoo and the coast. 

Meiringspoort and the Swartberg Pass are on Prince Albert's doorstep. Both fall within the Swartberg Nature Reserve (whose aims are to conserve fynbos and provide water). Both offer geological and natural splendours and the construction of both were spectacular engineering feats. 

You can wonder at the folds of the Table Mountain sandstone strata which constantly changing colour as you move through sunlight and shade. 
Look out for the bright green lychen, an indicator of the sparkling clear, pollution free air which we enjoy.
We can boast 130 species of bird-life. Watch out for black eagles.
Baboons, klipspringers and dassies are often seen along both routes. You might also see kudu and grey rhebuck. Leopard, karakal and jackals also roam the mountains, but are rarely seen.
Vegetation includes renosterveld, mountain fynbos, Karoo veld, spekboom veld and numerous geophyte species. Tenacious succulents, pelagoniums and other hardy plants cling to rock faces. On the plateau at the top of the Swartberg Pass and down towards the Oudsthoorn side you will drive through mountain fynbos, in autumn this stretch is bright with erica's and proteas - lookout for sugar birds and sunbirds.
In winter you can see snow on the Swartberg - where temperatures drop well below freezing. (in summer we experience temperatures of 40oC and more.)

Why not take a day drive over the Swartberg Pass to the Cango Caves, then home to Prince Albert through de Rust and Meiringspoort? An awe-inspiring experience.

 

 

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